When we talk about one of the key actors in the success of K-Dramas and K-Cinema -and by extension, the popularity of K-Culture across the world- this talented person can't be missed. It is none other than costume director Jo SangGyeong!

Her name might not be -yet- familiar to you, but if you are a K-Drama or movie viewer, you will have been in love with all her previous works! Who did not awe in front of the elegant clothes of Seo YeaJi in "It's Okay To Not Be Okay"? Who did not try to decode the peculiar costumes of "Squid Game"? It is also hard to find K-Drama fans who did not watch the popular dramas "Mr. Sunshine", "Sweet Home", "The Sound Of Magic", "My Name", or "Bulgasal: Immortal Souls". All these costumes were made by director Jo SangGyeong (along with her team GomGom Studio).

Jo SangGyeong has built up an impressive career since her debut in 2022. After taking classes on stage costumes at university, she started working on several movie costumes and then dramas (since 2018). She built up her talents with a lot of movies more than 80. To mention just a few, there was: "The Handmaiden", "Oldboy", "Illang: The Wolf Brigade", "The Witch: Part 1. The Subversion", "The Witch: Part 2. The Other One", "Alienoid", "Along with the Gods: The Last 49 Days", "Assassination", "Veteran", "The Magician", "The King", "A Taxi Driver", and much more. Her work in the drama and movie field has been well-recognized for years now and she was awarded several times for her work, the latest one being the TV Art Award for "It's Okay To Not Be Okay" in 2021. During her career, the director worked in many historical movies or dramas taking place in different periods of time, so with her team, she researched a lot and worked harder to have costumes adequate for all these different works. Jo SangGyeong is successful thanks to her hard work and talents.

Netflix / tvN (design by Kpopmap) - Costumes designed by Jo SangGyeong for "Squid Game", "It's Okay To Not Be Okay", "Mr. Sunshine", and "Bulgasal: Immortal Souls".

The latest addition to her impressive filmography is none other than "Alchemy Of Souls" (and part 2 "Alchemy Of Souls: Light And Shadow") which received a lot of love from viewers (trending weeks on Netflix's worldwide ranking)!

She worked on fictional clothes inspired by Korean traditional clothes for this fantasy romance drama set in a country that does not exist in history or on maps in which the protagonist's fates have been twisted due to magic. Lee JaeWook (as Jang Uk), Jung SoMin (as MuDeok), Go YounJung (as Jin BuYeon), Hwang MinHyun (as Seo Yul), Shin SeungHo (as the Crown Prince), OH MY GIRL’s Arin (as Jin ChoYeon), Yoo JunSang (as Park Jin), Yoo InSoo (as Park DangGu), Oh NaRa (as Kim DoJu), Jo JaeYoon (as Jin Mu), Park EunHye (as Jin HoKyung) and more were the lead actors of the show.

C-Jes / Pledis / King Kong By Starship / Namoo Actors (design by Kpopmap)

tvN / WM Entertainment (design by Kpopmap)

Viewers loved the costumes in their diversity, details, and novelty. Don't miss checking out the characters' costumes and their details, along with our reflections here:

In an exclusive interview with Kpopmap, we had to chance to hear more about the work, details, and stories behind the gorgeous costumes of "Alchemy Of Souls" but that is not all! The costume director tells us more about how her work and future projects! The costume director is booked and busy with much-awaited Netflix original dramas "Black Knight", "Sweet Home 2" , "Goodbye Earth" and the tvN new season of "Arthdal Chronicles".

Jo SangGyeong for "DAZED" (2017)

It is time to learn more about the beautiful work of costume director Jo SangGyeong.

Note: this article contains some spoilers of "Alchemy of Souls".

Learn more about the costume director

You have worked on a lot of dramas that are popular overseas. Have you ever felt the interest of international fans in the clothes/costumes of the dramas?

Yes, I felt viewers' passion for the drama from seeing still photos of "Alchemy of Souls" on Instagram or Pinterest. 🙂

You have worked for a lot of dramas that required traditional clothing (for example: "Mr. Sunshine" and "Bulgasal: Immortal Souls"). Is there any drama, according to you, that shows the beautiful sides of traditional Korean clothing? We are curious to know which project you think: "Through this project, I can introduce Korean Traditional clothing to overseas fans"?

If I talk only about the works that I have participated in, including movies and dramas, I can mention "Mr. Sunshine," which portrayed the situation in Korea during the end of Joseon. We did a good job of reproducing Hanboks through meticulous historical accuracy, so I think the Hanboks in this production were well done.
The movie "The Fortress" was also a project that aimed to showcase the clothing style of the 17th century. I also remember "The Royal Tailor" and "Kundo: Age of the Rampant," which were some of my first movies that featured Hanbok. Rather than saying that "these works have beautifully expressed Hanbok" like in your question, I think it's more accurate to say they were examples of Hanboks fitting the settings of the productions. I am a bit shy to say this...

We can say that it is the golden age of the OTT service like Netflix. You've worked and are working on several Netflix dramas. Is there anything different when you work with Netflix? [compared to other Korean broadcasting channels].

Since Netflix programs are broadcast simultaneously overseas, the challenge of visualizing the script increases due to the need to consider a wider range of concepts. With various cultural codes and emotional differences between countries, I take extra care to conduct thorough research when participating in Netflix productions. By doing so, I strive to deliver high-quality work that is tailored to meet the unique needs of each project.

Since a lot of our readers are new to the work of costume directors, do you mind explaining simply the process of how you plan and produce costumes? Are you planning only after receiving the whole script? When is the time for actors to try their costumes? Also, we are curious to know more about the behind of your work.

In most cases, after receiving the script, I first discuss the character analysis and the art concept with the director. Then, when the draft of the costumes is ready, we move on to fitting and discussing with the cast actors. Then we do test shooting and start the filming. Usually, meetings, fittings, and adjustments with the actors start about two months before the shooting begins. For works that take more than six months for pre-production, there are cases where we met actors earlier. For the drama "Alchemy of Souls," I remember that fittings and test shooting were conducted three months before filming.

Get to know details about the costumes of "Alchemy of Souls"

Costume director Jo SangGyeong did an amazing job at creating all the costumes of the country of Daeho that does not exist in map and history. International viewers praised the beautiful outfits a lot. All the outfits were so well-thought for each character. We have asked a bit more about the drama costumes.

tvN

In a previous interview, you said about "Alchemy of Souls" that "the costumes of all characters were made to look nice considering their status and actor image." We are curious to know more about how you decided the color of the costumes for each "Alchemy Of Souls" character. Could you tell us more detailed behind-the-scenes information?

Check the Korean interview here.

In Season 1, Jang Uk's costumes took inspiration from the colors of water and matched the color that would suit the actor, starting with tones that come from the Korean indigo (한국의 쪽빛). On the other hand, for MuDeok, who is both a servant, master, and lover to Jang Uk, we used shades of purple as the main color while adjusting the tones slightly to create a harmonious blend. The designs were influenced by aekjureum-po (액주름포) of Hanbok dopo (한복의 도포) to help the moves by using pleats.

(Note: aekjureum-po (액주름포) "is a type of traditional Korean overcoat with some creases added in the armpit" according to the K-Ribbon.)

In the same interview, you said that for "Alchemy of Souls", it took you four months to design the pleats of the skirt, so it took you a little more time to decide. The drama is 30 episodes (total) and there are a lot of characters, but you've done such beautiful costumes in such a short time. Which part of the costume did you spend the most time on?

The physical time it takes to make the clothes is similar for everyone. But I think that for MuDeok and Jin BuYeon we put more effort into it because the designed costumes are transformed from Hanbok starting from the way they are worn. In season 1, Jin ChoYeon's clothes required the most work.

In the same interview, you mentioned that you use various elements of Hanbok to match the actors. Is there any costume that used most elements close to traditional Korean clothes (such as shapes, patterns, ornaments, etc.)?

I think that maybe those who have studied Hanbok may have noticed. From the introduction of the 'Four Seasons' in the first episode, you can see 'dopo' (도포), 'wonsam' (원삼), 'cheolrik' (철릭), 'dapho' (답호), etc. It is all Hanbok.

If you are interested to see the comparison between drama costumes and Korean traditional clothes, you can have a look at this blog in Korean.

C-Jes / KingKong by Starship / Pledis / tvN

The emblems created for the drama are beautiful. You can see them a bit everywhere in the drama. We especially noticed them on the male characters' belts. How did you come up with the emblems of each family?

The patterns themselves were designed by the art director and used as symbols for each family. So, I used the patterns on the waist accessory for men called 'tohwan' (토환) used during the early Joseon Dynasty period. (This accessory is unique and has not been seen in historical dramas before, so it might have been unfamiliar to viewers. ^^)

Jang Uk & MuDeok's last scene / Jang Uk & Jin BuYeon's first scene (tvN)

Since it is a romance drama, you most probably worked on matching couple outfits or colors matching. Could you tell us more about this? In the first part, Jang Uk & MuDeok had matching blue couple outfits, while in the second part, Jang Uk & Jin BuYeon had completely opposite clothing. How did you decide on this? Is there any costume you made thinking it would be the perfect couple outfit?

The color scheme of the costumes worn by the characters MuDeok and Jang Uk in the last episode of Season 1, as well as the first meeting between Jang Uk and Jin BuYeon in the first episode of Season 2, was designed to enhance the emotions and charm of the actors. I believe that the costumes do not necessarily need to be fancy, as the actors' gaze carries a much stronger message.

tvN

The poster is very essential to promote a drama. Can you explain your costume choices? More particularly, the poster from part 1 where Jang Uk has Songrim clothes and MuDeok wears the clothes that see her death at the end of part 1. We are curious about the behind this choice.

Sorry, it was chosen by the marketing team.

tvN

Both the Crown Prince and Jang Uk have royal blood. In the first part, we noticed that in a few important scenes, they were both wearing similar navy-colored costumes. Is it related to them being from royal lineage? (For example, when they went to the rescue of MuDeok in Jinyowon).

Haha, I didn't think of that this far, but I always learn more from those who watch the show. ^^ ;;

Jinyowon ladies all have strong and complex styles, hair, and makeup (especially the signature eyeliner). However, Jin BuYeon was the only one with clothes that gave simple and pure feelings without much makeup or hairstyle. Why does she have a different style from other members of her family?

Since she was locked up inside Jinyowon, I thought it was appropriate for her attire not to look particularly flamboyant, like the elaborate costumes of other women in Jinyowon.

Can you tell us more about the changes in Jang Uk's style and hair between parts 1 and 2? Is there any meaning to Jang Uk's all-black outfits of part 2? (loneliness, distress, strength, mourning, shadow.)

To create a more dark, mature, and solid image for Jang Uk's costume, we lowered the color saturation. We also used silhouette changes such as opening the sleeves to accentuate the movement of the action.

tvN

In the second part, there is one clothe of Jang Uk that caught our attention because its inner is shining. By any chance, is this symbolizing the ice stone in his body? This costume is so cool.

Rather than symbolizing the ice stone, I think the clothing looks great thanks to the actor, to be honest.

Can you tell readers what is your favorite outfit of "Alchemy of Souls", explain it, and tell us why you chose it?

I like the short aekjureum-po with layers of MuDeok. I think I can still wear it now.

Get to know about Jo SangGyeong's future works

You are in charge of several awaited dramas, such as "Arthdal Chronicles 2" and "Black Knight". Can you tell us just a little spoiler about the costumes of those?

Regarding the drama "Arthdal Chronicles 2," the concept continues from the first season, but there may be differences in the way it is expressed since I did not direct the first season. I put a lot of thought into the ancient texture to make the story more powerful and engaging.

tvN

"Black Knight" is set in a dystopian world in the near future, but instead of a dark feeling, I designed the characters to look more three-dimensional and sophisticated. I'm also curious about how it will turn out since I haven't seen it yet. (They released a still picture of Kim WooBin on Netflix, and it looked cool.)^^

Netflix

Lastly, can you say a few words to international fans?

Thank you for your interest and love for Korean dramas these days. We are currently producing and preparing dramas such as "Sweet Home 2" and "Squid Game 2". Please continue to show your support and visit Korea~~!

Thank you so much for answering our questions costume director Jo SangGyeong and clarifying all the things we were curious about. Do you have a favorite costume made by costume director Jo SangGyeong? Tell us in the comments section down below!